After spending time in a cattle camp with the Mundari (The Mundari tribe and their Treasured Cows) in an area relatively close to Juba, the capital of South Sudan, we went on to visit more isolated tribes in a region that is part of the Eastern Equatoria state, in the southeast corner of this new country.
The two tribal groups we visited in that area, the Larim and the Toposa, have been enemies for a long time as they are both cattle herders and compete for water and pastures. The Toposa are also known to engage in cattle raiding, which sadly, given the new availability of firearms, often results in the death of herders. But both tribes were very friendly and welcoming to us (maybe because we sensibly decided to travel without any cattle).
We first spent time with the Larim (also called Boya as they live near the Boya Hills). The Larim live in permanent villages, though like the Mundaris, they also have cattle camps where men take the cows to graze during the dry season. The villages are quite charming, made of thatched houses, often surrounded by thick fences, reminding me of some of the comic books I read in my childhood (Asterix, anyone?). The dwellings have a rather low front opening, and one has to crawl to get in (at least I did); roofs are often decorated with shells. A thick thorn fence encircles the village area, probably for defense against attack by their nemesis, the Toposa.
Visiting these tribal villages at this time of the year is an interesting experience as it is primarily women and children staying in the villages, the men being away at the cattle camps. The only men in the village were the elders and a few young ones who hopefully can protect the women. The children, like the ones I have met all over the world, were curious to get to know us after initially (very briefly) hiding in their homes.
Men are out with the cattle, women are in charge of everything else. They grow seasonal crops, such as sorghum, millet, and beans, raise chickens and goats, and fetch the water. Over and over, we saw women (and children who were –barely–old enough) clean, separate, and winnow the grains, then grind them using stones on a rock. Women also gather bamboo from the forest to build or repair their houses. They carry the long stacks of bamboo back home on their head.
Larim women mostly wear traditional clothing, typically a beautiful skin skirt decorated with beads, or they sometimes cover themselves with a large piece of cloth that they tie over their bodies. Interestingly, young women and girls often wear short skirts made of colorful pieces of fabric sewn together. (I am not sure where this practice comes from, but it is prevalent at this point. I find it pretty attractive, and I can easily imagine it becoming a trendy item on a fashion runway). Larim women practice scarification somewhat differently from what I had seen in other tribes. The design almost looks like Asian characters, and they do it all over their body. They adorn themselves beautifully, particularly the “ready to be married” young women who wear a chain that goes from the piercing in their nose to one in their ears decorated with beads. They also wear beaded belts, bracelets, and headbands. Widows (sadly, they are many of them) also have their own sartorial traditions. They dress in a beige color and wrap palm fronds around their foreheads, arms and legs.
With the help of a local translator, we had a chance to “chat” briefly with a large group of women, asking one another about our respective lives. Asked how they chose a husband (actually, they don’t choose as the family does it for them), it was unanimous that the only factor that matters was the number of cows he owns. (None of the women in our group had mentioned this as a criterion). Asked what their favorite activity was, they seemed surprised by the question but then came up with dancing as an answer.
And we were lucky enough to see that they were not lying as women in two villages we visited got together and danced at the end of the day. They were jubilant, thoroughly enjoying themselves, seemingly forgetting about their demanding lives.
Off to the Toposa.
France
27 Responses
Beautiful work France!
Thank you, Karl. I’ve learned from the best 🙂 (but I am a slow learner)!
Fascinating, France! I find it interesting that consistently tribal people spend so much time on personal decorations and jewelry when they have so little free time. I, on the other hand, often don’t bother to put on a pair of earrings!
Yes, Sally. And not only do they have little time given their hard chores but they have so few resources and yet, they manage to acquire beads so this is obviously very important to them. And they have very clear preferences as to color and types of beads. We brought a whole bunch of beads for them and they all wanted to same ones (which was a problem). I guess this brings a little beauty to their harsh lives. (wait to see the next tribe where the entire skirts are beaded).
Beautiful work as always. I love all the body adornments.
Thank you, Michele. Will this be your new look ?
I always feel transported after reading your essays and looking at your amazing images!
Thank you, Tricia! I am glad you feel that way. Writing these little stories takes me back there; it is my way to keep the experience alive for as long as possible. Warmly, France
These photos are absolutely gorgeous. The jewelry, adornments, etc. are very similar to the women I visited in Ikipia (sp) Kenya where fighting takes
place between the farmers and cattle people. Seeing those tribal hard working women living so primitively and yet decorating themselves
with amazing beadwork and their use of fabrics is awe inspiring. And as you pointed out, they are joyful and mirthful, and proud.
Thank you for taking the time, Julie. Yes, I agree. These women have a very hard life but jewelry and adornments seem to provide them some joy and it is nice to see. And of course, it is a way to communicate their social status and stages of life. When we had a little chat with them, they were asking why we were not wearing much beads, which I am sure is very strange to them.
I have always wanted to go to Sudan..your photos are wonderful! And, again, I am jealous. You are a master photographer. I just bought a Sony Alpha 1 and a Sony 200-600mm lens; heading up to Nome, Alaska the first week of June to photograph birds in their breeding plumage. Should be fun. Keep traveling, be safe and I look forward to seeing more freaking great photos from you. Elise
Thank you, Elise, South Sudan is a little rough right now, but if it continues to be at peace, things should improve significantly (I hope for them), and you can visit. In the meantime, I am sure you’ll have a great time in Alaska. Enjoy the beautiful birds. Best, France
Wonderful images of beautiful people France.
Thank you, Brian. Beautiful people, indeed. Best, France
Once again, I’m inspired by your travels, artistry and experiences France. Being a hairdresser, when I see theses thatched houses, it reminds me of the 1980’s when we created “Thatched Bobs” by tightly perming the underneath in the nape/hairline. It gave an expanded exaggerated feel to the classic Bob, in order to balance out big shoulder pads, haha!
Thank you, dear Jeri. How fun that these houses remind you of a trendy hairstyle. I wish I could tell this to the Larim ladies; they are fascinated by hair. See you soon. 🙂 France
Fascinating.
It sure is. I hope all is well in your world, Dipankar. All the best, France
I love the way you create impact with low-angle shots and highlight adornment details with close ups. Empathy feels real
Dear Alain, Thank you for your kind words. Yes, I spent a lot of time “squatting” when I photograph. It brings a perspective that we often miss otherwise. And empathy is real 🙂 All the best, France
Thanks for taking me along on your trip. What I found most interesting is the colorful garb as it contrasts with the earth tones. Bravo, well done!
Thank you, Herb! Yes I guess colorful garb and adornment are how they bring color into their lives. I thought the short pleated skirts were so unexpected and yet so popular. One just wonders how these trends develop, so far away from everything.
Great work,France and thank you for your sharing Véronique Abour
My pleasure, Véronique, and thanks for taking the time to visit me, here. 🙂
France
I just wanted to correct my previous comment when I mentioned visiting LAIKIPIA, which I miswrote “Ikipia”, in case anyone noticed
or tried to google it. Once again I applaud your wonderful photos in Sudan!
Thank you for your clarification, Julie. Laikipia is a region of Kenya that has many different tribes. I am sure it was a great experience to mingle with the women, so much to learn from them.
The photos of the children in village life are very well conveyed.
You have a very, very good eye for the perfect moment!