As I mentioned in my previous post, last December I went back to Myanmar to explore a new (for me) area of this still enigmatic country. With a small group of photographers, including the inspired photographer Win Kyaw Zan as our local leader, I spent eight days on the upper part of the Chindwin River in North-Western Myanmar in a traditional fishing boat that had been temporarily converted to house our small group. In this post and the next, I will share my experiences in this still rural part of Burma.
The Chindwin River is a major river, and its 750-mile length is entirely within Burma. It is the largest tributary of the majestic Irrawaddy, which meets at a location very close to the famed Mandalay. We motored downstream from New Sorma, slightly north of Homelin, mainly following the India/Burma border, and ended up in Monywa, a town well-known for its magnificent caves, about a three-hour drive from Mandalay.
Much of Chindwin’s course lies within mountains and forests. The Chindwin is a narrow, shallow river used for transporting an extensive array of goods, including the prized teak wood from nearby forests. Most of the time, we were accompanied by rafts of all sizes, bringing their precious cargo to a downstream market. Slowly motoring along in our boat allowed us to visit small villages along the shores rarely visited by foreigners.
Among my favorite memories from this nautical expedition were the early morning outings. Every day we got up before dawn to enjoy the beautiful misty conditions on the river. These experiences took some effort. Not only am I not a “morning person,” but our boat had no electricity in the morning, and getting up in the dark can present many small challenges (try finding and putting on contact lenses in the dark). But it was all worth it as these morning excursions were, for me, the best ways to capture the mysterious and still elusive rural Burma.
On our first morning, at the northern point of our trip, we visited the Naga village of New Somra. Though Naga tribes mainly inhabit the North Eastern States of India (see my previous post, Nagaland, Indian Wild Wild East ), the Nagas also live on the other side of the India/Burma border, in North-Western Burma. That morning the locals had agreed to perform their traditional dances wearing their festival attires. We all gathered at a location surrounded by sacred pillars. The women wore red outfits, sizeable white necklaces, and unusual transparent earrings. In common with their Indian cousins, the men sported very impressive headdresses made up of hornbill feathers, a brass dish, and red and white seeds. In attendance was an older man impeccably dressed and carrying his spear. We were told that he was 86 years old and one of the group’s three remaining members that migrated from further up the mountain to the newer village of New Sorma where they currently live. I wish I could have communicated with him more as he seemed very curious about us, and I sure would have liked him to share his well-earned wisdom.
The following day, we stopped briefly at the village of Sarphar, and at a temporary settlement on the other side of the river. During the dry season, a few families of mat makers were making this their home for a few months. All were working hard, cutting and assembling rattan canes to make mats to ship further down the river to the market.
The remaining mornings, we visited small villages and the farmers that inhabit them. Not surprisingly, even at this early hour, farmers and villagers were already busy with their daily activities, working in the fields, kids walking to schools, women carrying heavy loads on their heads… all surrounded by a beautiful morning mist.
Next time, more about life on the Chindwin River.
France
16 Responses
Beautiful, ethereal photos! Well done, France.
Thank you Sally, I am glad you like the “mist”. Hope you are well. France
Ah, Myanmar…
Your photos are evocative. The morning river mist is tranquil.
Would love to visit Nagaland!!! The photo of the man with elaborate headgear that is backlight is super. Also admire the last photo with the haedbaskets balanced on the women’s heads, palm trees in foggy background, strong diagonal of the plank footpath.
I did “google” Win Kyaw Zan and his photos are elegant. You really travel with masters. No wonder you are becoming so excellent. Although, unkike previous posts, you do not have many portrait-type photos. Still, you have a consistant style all your own.
Look forward to your next post!
I have been in Pulia, Italy (the boot heel) the last 2 ½ weeks. Just returned home. Probably a lot of shots of narrow stone streets, some food photos, Romanesque churches etc. Looking forward to Ethiopia in September!
XO Elise
Nice hearing from you Elise. I am sure Pulia was great fun. Ethiopia will be quite an experience. Yes, Namibia is next for me. Can’t wait. All the best, France
Hi France,
Your latest photographs of Myanmar are so beautiful; the mist and the light produce a certain dreaminess which I love. Apart from their aesthetic quality you have some pictures there that would win competitions!
Thank you for your continuing posts; what a gift.
Jane Bradbear
Jane, So nice hearing from you and thank you so much for your kind words. I am glad you like the “mist”. It brings a softness to the images that I am quite fond of. I hope you are well and busy making beautiful images. All the best, France
Lovely. So lovely France.
Thank you Nevada. I loved the mist (and the trip).
Beautiful photographs! I tried to capture some of Burma during my time there – although my efforts don’t compare to yours. How do you get such clean, detailed looking images? I’d love to know the settings you use. Please have a look at my website if you get the time, I’d love to hear any feedback you may have!
Steve, Thanks for visiting. I think your images are fabulous. I don’t think you need my advice. I’ll be happy to give you info on specific settings if you are curious about an image in particular. But your work is great. You were obviously quite taken by Bagan. Keep shooting, France
The women look stunning ,were the necklaces decorative or symbolic? Waking up with misty mornings is quite magical as your pictures illustrate .The rattan is interesting in how they prepare it for shipment, who knows we may be sitting on outdoor furniture courtesy of these remarkable people.Did you see a school in New Somra ?
Emilie,
Very good question about the necklaces. I think they are mostly decorative but who knows they may have been symbolic at some point. I asked when I was there and I was told that they were wearing them only for the festivals. So I do not really know for sure. The rattan “village” was very special. The people were very surprised to see us but still very welcoming. Yes, there is a school in New Somra as the village is big enough. Most villages have at least elementary schools. Then many of the children have to travel by boat as fewer villages have high schools. Best, France
Wonderful. Brought back great memories. Can’t wait to see you in Namibia.
Thanks Sheilah, Hope you will have thawed by then 😉
Hi France,
I heard about your work when I met Prof. Thaler last week. I was amazed at the images you have captured. Each of them looks great. I love your photographs of Myanmar, more so because it reminds of my home state Kerala, India. Looking forward to see more images of the world captured through your lenses.
Hi Biju,
Thanks for your kind words on my images. I guess I must have a good agent 😉 I love Kerala, such a beautiful area. I am sure that there is more to see than what I have seen but I visited Cochin and spent some time on the backwaters. It was a lovely time. Welcome to Chicago. All the best, France