Oxcarts and More in Rural Myanmar

Chindwin2b As you may remember from the previous post, I spent eight days motoring down the Chindwin River in a fishing boat retrofitted to host a small group of photographers.  The Chindwin is a tributary of the Irrawady River that runs through small farming villages in the Northwestern part of Myanmar.  My last post focused on the extraordinary atmospheric scenes one could capture during the morning hours.  This post is more about the things that stayed with me from the brief visits we made to some of the villages along the shore.

From dawn to dusk, the river plays a crucial role in people’s lives.  In addition to the large rafts transporting goods and boats of all sizes transporting people from one village to the next, the river and its shores are full of activities.  We see fishermen sitting quietly in their boats or throwing nets, women and older children carrying buckets of water back to the village, people washing their clothes and themselves, and of course children enjoying the water playfully. Most of them sporting the traditional thanaka, a yellowish paste made of ground bark, on their cheeks.

 

Chindwin2 (1 of 32)

Chindwin2 (2 of 32) Chindwin2 (3 of 32) Chindwin2 (4 of 32) Chindwin2 (5 of 32) Chindwin2 (6 of 32)

 

Another important player in the daily life of the locals is the oxcart.  Oxcarts are ubiquitous in rural Myanmar.  These carts are the main means of land transportation in most of these villages and are used to carry passengers, bundles of hay, bamboo canes…  They are also used to plow the land and prepare the fields for planting and are often being handled by quite young boys or young women.

Chindwin2 (7 of 32) Chindwin2 (8 of 32) Chindwin2 (9 of 32) Chindwin2 (10 of 32) Chindwin2 (11 of 32) Chindwin2 (13 of 32) Chindwin2 (14 of 32) Chindwin2 (15 of 32) Chindwin2 (16 of 32)

These small communities are quite isolated and farming is the main activity for most locals. As we visited villages, we saw people in the fields, planting or harvesting depending on the crop or simply gardening.  Children, initially surprised at the view of foreigners in their villages quickly warmed up to us particularly since one member of our small group, the charismatic Sheilah, excelled at teaching them English children’s songs. as in “If you are happy and you know it, clap your hand…” (These songs were new to me, but I resisted the temptation to try to teach them Frère Jacques, mostly because I cannot sing.) We saw children everywhere, but also spend some time visiting with them at their schools. In the village of Nan Yin, while visiting a school, we asked if teh children could sing their favorite song for us.  Without missing a beat, they enthusiastically sang Myanmar’s national anthem (though I bet next time someone asks, the children will perform a great rendition of “If you’re happy and you know it”)


Chindwin2 (17 of 32)
Chindwin2 (18 of 32) Chindwin2 (19 of 32) Chindwin2 (20 of 32) Chindwin2 (21 of 32) Chindwin2 (22 of 32) Chindwin2 (23 of 32) Chindwin2 (24 of 32) Chindwin2 (25 of 32) Chindwin2 (26 of 32) Chindwin2 (27 of 32) Chindwin2 (28 of 32)

Of course, one cannot write about Myanmar without mentioning monks and pagodas, as they are probably the most common sights in the country (well, closely followed by oxcarts!)   Every village has their own pagodas and all villagers are very proud of them.  The most special ones on this trip were probably the ones we visited toward the end in a village called Kani.  These are magnificent pagodas from the 16th century.  We also visited the 28 pagodas of Masate, which make for a stunning sight from the river.  As for monks, none were more charming than the young novices in the village of Kazat.  Our nautical journey ended in Monywa, a town well known for the Hpo Win Taung caves. Although it is a beautiful site with multiple caves and over 2,600 Buddha statues, I will always remember it for its hungry and angry monkeys.

Chindwin2 (29 of 32) Chindwin2 (30 of 32) Chindwin2 (31 of 32) Chindwin2 (32 of 32)

So long Chindwin,

France

This entry was posted in Chindwin River, Myanmar, Photography, Travel and tagged , , , , , , , , , , .

10 Comments

  1. Karl Grobl April 13, 2014 at 18:48 #

    Wow, these are totally and completely AWESOME! France, These are truly some of your finest images. I’m so proud of you! Cheers, Karl

    • franceleclerc April 13, 2014 at 21:46 #

      Karl, So nice to hear from you. I am so glad you like these images. Thanks for the support, France

  2. Lisa Brockman April 13, 2014 at 21:37 #

    Nice work, France. I love the ones of the woman in the field (18 and 19, I think). Very moody! Lisa

    • franceleclerc April 15, 2014 at 08:51 #

      Thanks Lisa, I like those images too. Quiet bucolic scenes.

  3. Nevada Wier April 15, 2014 at 00:33 #

    I especially enjoy that the people images (less one) are natural moments, unique moments, in time; snowflakes images. No one else will ever make these images except you and they are lovely. Singular expressions. Well done!

  4. Emilie April 18, 2014 at 03:49 #

    I love these photos you’ve posted. The dusty road and the lush hillside brimming with pagodas .Is the last picture a cave cut into a hillside? Do you know how much it would cost a farmer to buy an ox and cart?

    • franceleclerc April 24, 2014 at 09:36 #

      Dear Emilie,

      Sorry for the delay. I am glad you like these images. The caves are indeed carved out of sandstone hills. There are many of them, I was told over 900), and they housed beautiful mural paintings and Buddha statues. Quite a sight, but the monkeys are ferocious 😉 The going price for an oxen is between $500-$700 US. Small farmers who cannot afford one on their own will often partner with others. Warm regards, France

  5. Anna Durrance-Bagale July 19, 2016 at 08:40 #

    These are absolutely beautiful images. I am in Myanmar right now working for 4 weeks but have little time to see much of the country. These photos have inspired me to come back and visit more of Myanmar. Thank you so much! Anna from UK.

    • franceleclerc July 27, 2016 at 10:09 #

      Anna, Thank you for visiting and I apologize for the delay in responding. I was on the road with limited internet access. Yes, the country side of Myanmar is stunningly beautiful and a lot of it hasn’t changed much, at least not as much as Yangon. So I hope you get a chance to go back soon and experience the “off-the-beaten path” Myanmar. Let me know what you find 😉 All the best, France

      • Anna July 27, 2016 at 10:14 #

        Thanks France, I will do!